Jewelry: The Body Transformed, la mostra al Met di New York dedicata alla storia del gioiello

Può evocare spiriti, richiamare il desiderio, o esprimere uno status sociale e opulenza: la mostra al museo newyorchese indaga i vari significati del gioiello dall’antico Egitto ai giorni nostri

Jewelry: The Body Transformed, la mostra al Met di New York dedicata alla storia del gioiello
Necklace Lalique, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Lillian Nassau, 1985

Ora lo consideriamo un semplice accessorio ma nel corso dei secoli il gioiello ha assunto diversi significati, e la mostra Jewelry: The Body Transformed guida il pubblico in un percorso che ha origine nel 2600 a.C. e termina ai giorni nostri. I 230 oggetti appartenenti quasi esclusivamente alla collezione del Metropolitan Museum of Art, sono suddivisi in diverse sale tematiche proprio a sottolineare come, una volta indossato, l’ornamento potesse trasformare, enfatizzare e vestire un corpo. Nella sezione the Divine Body viene esaminato il legame dell’ornamento con l’immortalità, esponendo così oggetti dell’antico Egitto e altri provenienti dal cimitero reale di Ur in Mesopotamia. In the Regal Body viene analizzato l’uso dei gioielli nel corso della storia per affermare il rango e lo status, come gli zaffiri e le perle di Bisanzio, l’oro finemente lavorato della Grecia ellenistica, e l’avorio e il bronzo delle corti reali del Benin. The Transcendent Body celebra il potere degli ornamenti per evocare spiriti, placare gli dei e invocare antenati. Dal significato spirituale si passa al legame con il desiderio, così in the Alluring Body vengono esposte stampe in legno e ornamenti d’epoca che illustrano come venisse indicata la disponibilità di una cortigiana a Edo in Giappone, solo a seconda della pettinatura. Il gioiello come ostentazione è il tema della sezione the Resplendent Body, dall’opulento ornamento dei Moghul all’elegante design di Castellani, Lalique e Tiffany & Co.

– Ilaria Bulgarelli


New York // fino al 24 febbraio 2019
Jewelry: The Body Transformed
The Met Fifth Avenue
1000 Fifth Avenue

Necklace of Lentoid Beads, String of Lentoid Beads, and Heart Scarab of Manuwai The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fletcher Fund, 1920 1 / 22
Necklace of Lentoid Beads, String of Lentoid Beads, and Heart Scarab of Manuwai The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fletcher Fund, 1920
Large Brooch with Spirals, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Caroline Howard Hyman Gift 2000 2 / 22
Large Brooch with Spirals, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Caroline Howard Hyman Gift 2000
Pair of gold earrings with Ganymede and the eagle The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, 1937 3 / 22
Pair of gold earrings with Ganymede and the eagle The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, 1937
Jeweled Bracelets, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of J. Pierpont Morgan 4 / 22
Jeweled Bracelets, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of J. Pierpont Morgan
Bracelets with Crocodile Heads, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Klaus G. Perls, 1991 5 / 22
Bracelets with Crocodile Heads, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Klaus G. Perls, 1991
A Pair of Royal Earrings, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of John and Evelyn Kossak, The Kronos Collections, 1981 6 / 22
A Pair of Royal Earrings, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of John and Evelyn Kossak, The Kronos Collections, 1981
Francesco I de' Medici (1541–1587), Grand Duke of Tuscany, The Metropolitan Museum of Art 1983 7 / 22
Francesco I de' Medici (1541–1587), Grand Duke of Tuscany, The Metropolitan Museum of Art 1983
Josephine Baker, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Ford Motor Company Collection, Gift of Ford Motor Company and John C. Waddell, 1987 8 / 22
Josephine Baker, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Ford Motor Company Collection, Gift of Ford Motor Company and John C. Waddell, 1987
Marriage Necklace (Thali), The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Cynthia Hazen Polsky, 1991 9 / 22
Marriage Necklace (Thali), The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Cynthia Hazen Polsky, 1991
Necklace (or belt) in the form of a snake The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 2004 10 / 22
Necklace (or belt) in the form of a snake The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 2004
Bone Cuff Elsa Peretti, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1976 11 / 22
Bone Cuff Elsa Peretti, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1976
Yashmak, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2017 12 / 22
Yashmak, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2017
Woman of the court dressed as Radha, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Evelyn Kranes Kossak, 2017 13 / 22
Woman of the court dressed as Radha, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Evelyn Kranes Kossak, 2017
Necklace Lalique, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Lillian Nassau, 1985 14 / 22
Necklace Lalique, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Lillian Nassau, 1985
Hair Ornament Louis Comfort Tiffany (American, New York 1848–1933 New York) ca. 1904 Made in New York, New York, United States, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Linden Havemeyer Wise, in memory of Louisine W. Havemeyer, 2002 15 / 22
Hair Ornament Louis Comfort Tiffany (American, New York 1848–1933 New York) ca. 1904 Made in New York, New York, United States, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Linden Havemeyer Wise, in memory of Louisine W. Havemeyer, 2002
"Oh I am Precious #7" Necklace, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Donna Schneier, 2007 16 / 22
"Oh I am Precious #7" Necklace, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Donna Schneier, 2007
Man's Ear Ornaments (Batling) Late 19th–early 20th century Philippines, Ilongot people Hornbill ivory, metal, shell, glass beads Width 6-3/4 in. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Jean Paul and Monique Barbier-Mueller, 1988 (1988.125.4a, b) 17 / 22
Man's Ear Ornaments (Batling) Late 19th–early 20th century Philippines, Ilongot people Hornbill ivory, metal, shell, glass beads Width 6-3/4 in. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Jean Paul and Monique Barbier-Mueller, 1988 (1988.125.4a, b)
Ivory Ear Ornaments (Hakakai), Early 19th century, Marquesas Islands, Whale ivory, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Michael C. Rockefeller Memorial Collection, Bequest of Nelson A. Rockefeller, 1979 18 / 22
Ivory Ear Ornaments (Hakakai), Early 19th century, Marquesas Islands, Whale ivory, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Michael C. Rockefeller Memorial Collection, Bequest of Nelson A. Rockefeller, 1979
Collar 12th–14th century Peru, Chimú Spondylus shell and black stone beads, cotton, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Nathan Cummings Gift and Rogers Fund, 2003 19 / 22
Collar 12th–14th century Peru, Chimú Spondylus shell and black stone beads, cotton, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Nathan Cummings Gift and Rogers Fund, 2003
Evening belt Elsa Schiaparelli (Italian, 1890–1973) Fall 1934 Silk, plastic Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009 20 / 22
Evening belt Elsa Schiaparelli (Italian, 1890–1973) Fall 1934 Silk, plastic Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009
Gold Sandals and Toe Stalls New Kingdom, Dynasty 18, reign of Thutmose III, ca. 1479–1425 B.C. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fletcher Fund, 1922 21 / 22
Gold Sandals and Toe Stalls New Kingdom, Dynasty 18, reign of Thutmose III, ca. 1479–1425 B.C. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fletcher Fund, 1922
Broad Collar of Senebtisi, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Rogers Fund, 1908 22 / 22
Broad Collar of Senebtisi, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Rogers Fund, 1908
Necklace of Lentoid Beads, String of Lentoid Beads, and Heart Scarab of Manuwai The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fletcher Fund, 1920
Large Brooch with Spirals, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Caroline Howard Hyman Gift 2000
Pair of gold earrings with Ganymede and the eagle The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, 1937
Jeweled Bracelets, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of J. Pierpont Morgan
Bracelets with Crocodile Heads, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Klaus G. Perls, 1991
A Pair of Royal Earrings, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of John and Evelyn Kossak, The Kronos Collections, 1981
Francesco I de' Medici (1541–1587), Grand Duke of Tuscany, The Metropolitan Museum of Art 1983
Josephine Baker, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Ford Motor Company Collection, Gift of Ford Motor Company and John C. Waddell, 1987
Marriage Necklace (Thali), The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Cynthia Hazen Polsky, 1991
Necklace (or belt) in the form of a snake The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 2004
Bone Cuff Elsa Peretti, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1976
Yashmak, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2017
Woman of the court dressed as Radha, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Evelyn Kranes Kossak, 2017
Necklace Lalique, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Lillian Nassau, 1985
Hair Ornament Louis Comfort Tiffany (American, New York 1848–1933 New York) ca. 1904 Made in New York, New York, United States, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Linden Havemeyer Wise, in memory of Louisine W. Havemeyer, 2002
"Oh I am Precious #7" Necklace, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Donna Schneier, 2007
Man's Ear Ornaments (Batling) Late 19th–early 20th century Philippines, Ilongot people Hornbill ivory, metal, shell, glass beads Width 6-3/4 in. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Jean Paul and Monique Barbier-Mueller, 1988 (1988.125.4a, b)
Ivory Ear Ornaments (Hakakai), Early 19th century, Marquesas Islands, Whale ivory, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Michael C. Rockefeller Memorial Collection, Bequest of Nelson A. Rockefeller, 1979
Collar 12th–14th century Peru, Chimú Spondylus shell and black stone beads, cotton, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Nathan Cummings Gift and Rogers Fund, 2003
Evening belt Elsa Schiaparelli (Italian, 1890–1973) Fall 1934 Silk, plastic Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009
Gold Sandals and Toe Stalls New Kingdom, Dynasty 18, reign of Thutmose III, ca. 1479–1425 B.C. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fletcher Fund, 1922
Broad Collar of Senebtisi, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Rogers Fund, 1908

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Ilaria Bulgarelli

Ilaria Bulgarelli

Ilaria Bulgarelli (Roma, 1981) ha studiato presso l’Università degli Studi di Roma “Tor Vergata”, conseguendo la laurea triennale in Ingegneria Edile, poi presso “Sapienza Università di Roma”, per terminare i suoi studi con la laurea specialistica in Architettura. Un mix…

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